Turn Your Amigurumi into a Hook Holder
Do you have lots of amigurumi you don’t know what to do with, but you want to keep making more?
Modifying your amigurumi pattern to create a crochet hook and/or pen holder is a fantastic way to elevate your crafting experience while adding functional flair to your workspace. By adapting the design, you can transform your charming creations into practical tools that keep your favorite hooks or writing utensils organized and within reach. This not only allows you to keep making adorable amigurumi but also breathes new life into your crochet skills, encouraging creativity as you explore different shapes and features. Plus, having a whimsical holder adds a personal touch to your crafting space, making it feel even more inviting!
Materials Needed
Basic egg-shaped amigurumi pattern, and the required materials
Learn more on the Tools & Materials page →
Abbreviations
Single crochet (sc)
Increase (inc)
Invisible decrease (dec)
Front loop only (flo)
Back loop only (blo)
How to Modify Your Pattern
Most egg-shaped amigurumi follow similar patterns, but you may need to adjust your modifications as you go. The following are basic steps to add to an 18 round egg-shaped pattern. There are some variations of this shape, or your pattern may make a larger piece, steps that may require additional modifications are noted in purple.
| R1 | Start 6 sc in a magic ring | (6) |
| R2 | 6 inc | (12) |
| R3 | [sc, inc] x 6 | (18) |
| Modification begins here | ||
| R4 | 18 sc flo | (18) |
| R5–14 | 18 sc This is 10 rounds to create the inner tube, add or remove rounds based on the difference in rounds from your pattern and an 18 round base. (ex. Your pattern has 20 rounds, add 2 more rounds to the tube.) |
(18) |
| R15 | [2 sc blo, inc blo] x 6 | (24) |
| R16 (R5) | 24 sc You should now be continuing the original pattern. A traditional egg-shape is noted, but your pattern may vary. |
(24) |
| R17 (R6) | [5 sc, inc] x 4 | (28) |
| R18–20 (R7-9) | 28 sc | (28) |
| R21 (R10) | [6 sc, inc] x 4 | (32) |
| R22–24 (R11–13) | 32 sc | (32) |
| R25 (R14) | [2 sc, dec] x 8 | (24) |
| R26 (R15) | 24 sc | (24) |
| R27 | Add an extra row of 24 sc to create a more stable base. If your pattern varies, add an extra row where the pattern starts to decrease again. | |
| Attach the eyes with the front loops from R15 counting as R3 of your source pattern. (If the eyes should go between rounds 7 and 8, this would be rounds 4 and 5 counting from the front loops as 0 [7-3=4, 8-3=5].) | ||
| Now, push the long center tube inside the body and lightly stuff around it. Make sure not to overstuff and compress the center tube too much. | ||
| R28 (R16) | Complete this round in the back loops to create a flat base: [sc blo, dec blo] x 8 | (16) |
| (Skip R17) | Skip R17 to keep the base flat: |
|
| Finish lightly stuffing the piece. | ||
| R29 (R18) | 8 dec | (8) |
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread a needle with the tail and pull tightly through the remaining front loops and hide the tail in the body.
Continue adding pieces to the body per your original pattern, using the eyes as a reference for the rounds of the original pattern. Be careful not to sew through the center tube.
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